Messina's Orologio Astronomico: one of the largest and most impressive clocks
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If you ever find yourself in Messina, one sight you won't want to miss is the city's Orologio Astronomico (Astronomical Clock). In 1933, years after the destructive 1908 earthquake, Messina's archbishop commissioned the Ungerer Company of Strasbourg to (re)construct a new bell tower. The result? One of the largest and most impressive astronomical clocks in the world!
Perched on the bell tower of the Duomo di Messina, this impressive timepiece does more than tell time — it puts on a full performance. Every day at noon, its golden figures come to life, reenacting historical and religious scenes in a 12-minute spectacle. Though it may be over the top for some, the Orologio Astronomico is one of Messina's top attractions. And because there's so much to say about it, I decided it deserved its own post. So, let's dive into the symbolism behind this remarkable clock.
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South facade
Upon approaching the bell tower, you'll notice that the facade facing the cathedral features two dials. The lower one is a perpetual calendar, with the outer ring showing the day and month. Moving panels on the ring highlight the liturgical feasts that change yearly. To the left of the dial, a marble angel uses a golden arrow to indicate the current day. While looking at the clock, it reminded me of Venice's clock tower (even though they're quite different).
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The upper dial is the planetarium, showing the solar system. The sun sits at the center, with nine planets rotating around it at distances proportional to their actual positions.
Above the dials, a large sphere represents the moon. One half is painted gold, the other black. It rotates slightly each day, mimicking the moon's movements and phases.
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West facade
Now, let's head to the side facing the square. And trust me, you'll want to be standing right here at noon!
The lion
First, look at the gilded bronze lion at the top of the facade. It symbolizes strength and the province of Messina. Right after the bells ring at noon, the lion springs to life. It waves its flag, flicks its tail, turns its head toward the square, and roars three times in a row.
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The rooster, Dina and Clarenza
As the lion's third roar fades, the spectacle continues with the rooster on the level below. The rooster starts flapping its wings, lifts its head, and crows three consecutive times.
You can see the rooster standing between two statues, that of Dina and Clarenza. These two heroines once defended Messina. In 1282, Angevin troops laid siege to the city during the War of the Sicilian Vespers. One night, they launched a new attack, but Dina stopped them by rolling stones down the walls while Clarenza rang the bells to alert the people. Their quick actions helped save the city.
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The church of Montalto
After the rooster's crowing, Schubert's Ave Maria begins to play. While you listen, keep an eye on the lower frames. A golden dove starts flying in circles in one of them, and slowly, a church emerges from behind the mountains. This scene represents the founding of the church of Montalto. According to tradition, in 1294, the Virgin Mary appeared to Brother Nicola in a dream and told him to build a church in her name. She instructed him to go to Caperrina Hill, where a dove would mark the church's perimeter at noon.
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The biblical scenes
As the church of Montalto comes into full view, the frame above it comes to life, shifting with the liturgical calendar.
During the period between Christmas and Epiphany, the scene depicts the adoration of the shepherds. Each shepherd bows before the baby Jesus, the Virgin Mary, and Saint Joseph.
After Epiphany and leading up to Easter, the Three Kings appear, guided by a comet. Between Easter and Pentecost, you can witness the resurrection of Jesus, with two soldiers standing guard as Jesus rises from the tomb.
Finally, between Pentecost and Christmas, the scene transforms to show the descent of the Holy Spirit. The twelve apostles gather with the Virgin Mary. A dove — the symbol of the Holy Spirit — flies above them, and flames appear on their heads while they raise their arms in awe.
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The Madonna della Lettera
Now, look up at the section just below the rooster. In the center, you'll see the Madonna della Lettera, Messina's patron saint. An angel passes by, delivering a letter to the Virgin Mary. Behind the angel, Saint Paul and the ambassadors of Messina follow, each bowing as they pass in front of the Madonna.
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The days of the week
The scenes in the lower two frames aren't part of the afternoon show. Instead, the figures (pagan divinities) in the bottom frame come to life at midnight. Each divinity represents a different day:
Monday: chariot pulled by a deer and driven by Diana
Tuesday: chariot pulled by a horse and driven by Mars
Wednesday: chariot pulled by a panther and driven by Mercury
Thursday: chariot pulled by a chimera and driven by Jupiter
Friday: chariot pulled by a dove and driven by Venus
Saturday: chariot pulled by a chimera and driven by Saturn
Sunday: chariot pulled by a horse and driven by Apollo
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The stages of life
The remaining frame features four life-sized statues that represent the stages of life: childhood (a child), youth (a boy), maturity (a warrior), and old age (an old man). Every fifteen minutes, one moves to the scene's center. Meanwhile, Death, depicted as a skeleton, looms over the progression of life.
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Seeing the clock's mechanism
If you have time, I highly recommend visiting the heart of the Orologio Astronomico. Doing so is especially interesting during the afternoon spectacle.
Climbing the 236 steps, you'll get a close-up look at how all the figures come to life through a complex system of gears, cables, levers, and counterweights.
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When you reach the top, the city unfolds before you. On one side, you'll see the Strait of Messina; on the other, the hills. You'll also spot landmarks like the Church of Montalto, the Tempio di Cristo Re, and the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele III.
I look forward to hearing your thoughts on the Orologio Astronomico! Feel free to share them in the comments!
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