Santuario Madonna della Corona: day trip from Verona
Last updated: September 2022
One day during the COVID lockdown, I was endlessly scrolling through my Instagram feed. And then, amidst the sea of typical junk, my eye got caught by a picture of a church perched precariously on the edge of a mountainside. It turned out to be the Santuario Madonna della Corona. Intrigued, I added it to my bucket list, but the lockdown meant I had to wait.
The Santuario Madonna della Corona is built on the edge of a mountainside.
Fast forward a few months, travel restrictions eased, and I seized the opportunity to visit Verona for its renowned opera festival. This trip also meant I finally had the chance to plan a trip to the Madonna della Corona. It required climbing approximately 1,500 steps, but the effort was well worth the experience!
Interested in visiting the sanctuary as well? Then keep reading because, in this post, I'll tell you more about the church's history and give you some practical tips on how to get there (with and without having to climb all those steps). So, get ready to explore this hidden gem!
History
The sanctuary is nestled in Spiazzi, just a stone's throw away from both Verona and Lago di Garda. Perched on the vertical cliff face of Monte Baldo, it overlooks the surrounding mountains and the valley of the Adige river. When viewed from afar, the Madonna della Corona appears to challenge the laws of gravity, giving the illusion that it is suspended halfway between heaven and earth.
The church appears to be suspended halfway between heaven and earth.
The site's history traces back many centuries, beginning with a hermitage established around AD 1000 by hermits connected to the Abbey of San Zeno in Verona. Here, they sought solace and a simple existence, far away from the hustle and bustle of the world.
In the second half of the 13th century, a chapel dedicated to Santa Maria of Monte Baldo was established at the very site of the present-day sanctuary. I'm sure it was no ordinary building project because, at that time, the only way to reach the area was via a narrow path carved into the rock.
This old gate (left) provides access to the last couple of stairs (right) of the 'Sentiero dei Pellegrini'.
In 1437, the chapel came into the possession of the Knights of the Order of Saint John, also known as the Knights of Rhodes. This name refers to the island where they had their headquarters (before relocating to Malta in 1522 after the Turks conquered Rhodes). Between 1490 and 1521, the knights transformed the modest chapel into a church. Inside, they placed a sculpture that had been commissioned by Ludovico di Castelbarco in 1432. It's this sculpture that eventually became known as the Madonna della Corona.
Although the inscription on the sculpture's pedestal seems to support this historical narrative, some believe the captivating legend of an angel carrying the Madonna from Rhodes to Monte Baldo during the Turkish occupation of the Greek island. Which of these two narratives do you find more plausible?
At the end of the 'Sentiero dei Pellegrini' you'll find a copy of the sculpture (left). The original can be found inside the church on the wall behind the altar (right). The text on the sculpture's pedestal reads: ''HOC OPUS FECIT FIERI LODOVICUS D CASTROBARCO D 1432''. It can be seen as proof that the statue was indeed commissioned by Ludovico di Castelbarco.
Since 1521, the Sanctuary of Madonna della Corona has undergone several expansions, reconstructions, and renovations. Yet, the most notable transformation occurred during the 1970s when an Italian architect was tasked with dismantling a considerable portion of the structure. Despite this significant overhaul, the architect skillfully rebuilt the sanctuary, making every effort to preserve as many important elements as possible.
As the years passed, the Santuario Madonna della Corona gained increasing popularity among both pilgrims and tourists. In fact, it is estimated that approximately 40,000 people visit the church each year!
Below the main church, you can find the Chapel of the Confessions.
How to get there?
Getting to the Madonna della Corona was undoubtedly the most challenging part of my trip. After all, how do you reach a church built on a vertical cliff face?
If you're traveling from Verona, the easiest way to reach the sanctuary is by car. Although train and bus options are available (which I'll explain later), taking your own vehicle offers more convenience. There are two routes to access the sanctuary, and let me start with the easiest one.
Main entrance of the Madonna della Corona (left). Above the entrance, a relief depicts Mary approaching her son, Christ, as he carries his cross to Golgotha, where he would be crucified (right).
Option 1: reach Madonna della Corona from Spiazzi
Located just above the sanctuary of Madonna della Corona, Spiazzi is a quaint little town that can be reached in about an hour by car from Verona. You have two options to reach the sanctuary once you've parked your car in Spiazzi.
You can opt for a 20-minute walk downhill (and uphill on your return journey) or take the convenient shuttle bus. The shuttle bus operates every 30 minutes, and the ticket prices are €1.80 for a one-way ride and €3.00 for a roundtrip. The ride on the shuttle bus only takes a few minutes, and the stopping place is just a stone's throw away from the sanctuary.
Keep in mind that the shuttle service runs regularly during the summer season. During the off-season, it is available only on weekends and holidays. So, if you're planning a visit outside the summer months, make sure to schedule your trip accordingly.
Left of church's entrance, a mountain niche holds a small altar. The sign next to the altar reads: "Let us approach the throne of justice with confidence in order to obtain mercy and find grace at the appropriate time."
Option 2: the Path of Hope, starting from Brentino Belluno
Another way to reach the sanctuary is by taking the path known as the "Sentiero della Speranza" or "Sentiero dei Pellegrini," which translates to the Path of Hope or Pilgrims' Path. This option is more ambitious compared to the shuttle, but it offers a rewarding experience. The path starts in the village of Brentino Belluno, situated at the foot of the Monte Baldo. From there, you'll traverse a winding path that leads you through a forest.
The starting point of the Sentiero dei Pellegrini is clearly indicated (left). Just keep an eye out for the white/red signs with the number 73 (right).
However, be prepared for a challenge, as this path involves climbing around 1,500 steps. But let me assure you, the effort is well worth it, as you'll be rewarded with some wonderful views along the way. It all adds to the entire experience, making it even more memorable.
Oh, and to give you an idea, I would describe myself as moderately fit, and it took me about 2 hours to reach Madonna della Corona. That includes plenty of time to savor the views, capture some photos, and take short breaks when needed. So, if I can make it to the top, rest assured, anyone can! Just remember to bring enough water to stay hydrated throughout the journey.
Even dark and cloudy days can still offer some surprisingly beautiful views.
Public transport
But what if you don't have a car? Don't worry; train and bus options are available, although there is no direct connection.
If you prefer the bus, the best route is to take bus 173 from Verona Porta Nuova, the city's train station, to Caprino Veronese. From there, you can catch bus 476, which will take you to Spiazzi. Just plan ample time (at least 15 minutes) for your transfer. Based on my experience, buses rarely run on time.
Facade of the Madonna della Corona (left). The statues visible in the niches on the facade portray Saint John the Evangelist (picture on the right) and Mary Magdalene.
Alternatively, my recommendation is to take the train. This is the method I opted for during my trip. I took the train from Verona Porta Nuova to Peri. This train runs regularly, and the journey takes approximately 30 minutes, with a one-way ticket costing €4.45. If you need advice on how to purchase a ticket, you can find more information in my post about traveling by train.
From Peri, it's a 50 to 60-minute walk to Brentino Belluno along the Strada Provinciale 11. It can be busy with traffic, so please be careful while walking along this road. Luckily, part of the route has a biking lane, providing a safer walking space.
Once you arrive in Brentino Belluno, keep an eye out for the white/red signs with the number 73, which will guide you to the starting point of the "Sentiero dei Pellegrini," leading to the sanctuary.
A winding path leads you through a forest all the way to the Madonna della Corona. The hike will take about two hours. The return journey is downhill and will take you about an hour.
Practical information
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