Last updated: November 2023

Nestled among the hills of Umbria, you'll find one of Italy's largest lakes — Lago Trasimeno. Positioned on the boundary between Umbria and Tuscany, the lake is an ideal hub for various day trips. To the south lie some of Umbria's medieval gems, such as Perugia, Assisi, and Gubbio, while to the north, the rolling hills of Tuscany unfold with charming villages like Arezzo and Montepulciano. It makes Lago Trasimeno an ideal holiday destination.

Passignano sul Trasimeno, a charming town on the Lago Trasimeno's northern shore.

You'll also find several beautiful and cozy towns around the lake itself. Although I haven't visited all of them, I'll highlight three spots that stood out the most. I'm curious to know about your favorite place on Lago Trasimeno. Share your thoughts in the comments!

My first stop was Passignano sul Trasimeno (Google Maps), a charming town on the lake's northern shore. As I walked from the train station along the promenade, I sensed a warm, family-oriented atmosphere. Despite never having been there before, it brought back memories of the holidays I enjoyed with my parents when I was younger.

That being said, let me tell you something about the history of Passignano sul Trasimeno. The town's original name was Passus Jani, or Passo di Giano, referring to the mythical god of ports. Passignano sul Trasimeno owed this name to its strategic location on the border of Umbria and Tuscany.

Passignano sul Trasimeno

The Torre dell'orologio (left) and small pier along the town's promenade, or 'Passeggiata Lungolago' (right).

Moreover, the town is situated close to a historical site where a significant event unfolded during the Second Punic War. This war was the second of three conflicts fought between Carthage and Rome, the two dominant powers of the western Mediterranean in the 3rd century BC.

Through Spain and over the Alps, the great Carthaginian general Hannibal led his forces, which included African war elephants, toward Rome. By 217 BC, he had reached the vicinity of Passignano sul Trasimeno. Positioned between hills on one side and the lake on the other, the area proved ideal for Hannibal to set up an ambush. As the Romans appeared, Carthaginian troops rushed down from the surrounding hills, leaving the Roman legions with no means of escape. The battle that followed turned into a brutal massacre, claiming the lives of around 15,000 Roman soldiers, including the Roman Consul Caio Flaminio.

In the neighboring town of Tuoro sul Trasimeno, you can find the 'Museo di Annibale al Trasimeno' (Google Maps), a museum commemorating this historic battle. Although I haven't had the chance to visit it myself, from the brochures I've seen, it seems like an interesting place to visit.

Painting of the battle between Carthaginian and Roman soldiers, Palazzo Della Corgna (Castiglioni del Lago).

The highlight of Passignano sul Trasimeno is the fortress of Passignano, also referred to as La Rocca (Google Maps). Dominating the town's historic center, the origins of the fortress date to the Lombard period (5th and 6th century), but the walls probably took shape between 820 and 850 under the Marquis of Tuscany.

Triangular tower of La Rocca (left). Doves are nestling in the cracks and holes of the tower and medieval walls (right).

In the course of the Middle Ages, La Rocca witnessed multiple changes in ownership and endured episodes of plundering and raids. Following the war between the Dukedom of Tuscany and the Papal State in 1479, many of the towers were dismantled. Nowadays, only the remnants of the ancient structure endure, comprising the walls, the northern section of the medieval castle, and a triangular tower — a humble reminder of the fortress's former grandeur.

View of Lago Trasimeno with Isola Maggiore in the distance.

Nonetheless, La Rocca remains a fascinating place to explore. For a small fee (I believe it was €2.50), you can climb the inner spiral staircase of the tower. Once at the top, you'll be treated to panoramic views of Lago Trasimeno, its islands, the town of Passignano sul Trasimeno, and the surrounding hills.

Standing on the shore of Passignano sul Trasimeno, you can see the three islands of Lago Trasimeno: Isola Polvese, Isola Maggiore, and Isola Minore. All three boast dense vegetation with pines, holm oaks, and olive trees. However, unlike the others, Isola Maggiore is (still) inhabited.

The island's small village (Google Maps) comprises a single paved road lined with a handful of houses dating back to the 13th and 14th centuries. It's a perfect spot for a laid-back half-day getaway.

Arriving at the ferry terminal of Isola Maggiore.

Getting to Isola Maggiore is easy and takes only 20 to 40 minutes. All you have to do is hop on the ferry from Tuoro (Google Maps) or Passignano (Google Maps). Just keep in mind that the schedules vary with the seasons. So, remember to check the Umbria Mobilita website in advance or swing by the local tourist office for the latest information.

As the ferry approaches Isola Maggiore, you'll spot a quaint castle located at the southern tip of the island (Google Maps). Once a Franciscan convent and church, it underwent a transformation when Marquis Giacinto Guglielmi acquired it in 1887. Giacinto turned the structure into a private castle and named it after his wife: Villa Isabella. The castle remained in possession of the Guglielmi family until 1975. Sadly, nowadays, the building stands in a state of neglect and is not open to the public.

Via Guglielmi, Isola Maggiore

Once you get off the ferry, you'll find yourself on Via Guglielmi, the island's main street. Along it are several buildings of interest. The first one, almost immediately on your left, is the Chiesa del Buon Gesu (Google Maps). This small church was erected in the 14th or 15th century—however, the church's present facade and interior trace back to the 17th and 18th centuries.

Upon entering, the baroque altar will instantly grab your attention. Its two twisted columns are said to be inspired by Gian Lorenzo Bernini's designs for the famed Baldachin of St. Peter's Basilica in Rome. Above the altar is a painting depicting the Presentation of Jesus in the Temple. 

Interior of Chiesa del Buon Gesu.

On the left wall of the church, you'll find a painting representing the Assumption of the Virgin and Saints by Giacomo Giorgetti, a painter from Assisi who crafted the piece around 1630-40. The Crucifix on the opposite wall dates back to the 12th century and was generously donated to the community by the Marquise Giacinto Guglielmi.

Details of the fresco's on the church's ceiling and walls.

Adjacent to the Chiesa del Buon Gesu stands the Casa del Capitano del Popolo (Google Maps). Characterized by the clock on its facade, this building derives its name from its previous role as a summer residence for prominent individuals from Perugia who held the title of Captain of the People in the municipal government. Nowadays, the building serves as a documentation center where you can explore the history of Isola Maggiore. Once inside, you'll find panels and graphic reconstructions that unfold the island's economic activities. Ancient processional banners offer a glimpse into the vibrant confraternities that were once present on the island.

Back on Via Guglielmi with the Casa del Capitano del Popolo on the right.

If you take a left turn after exiting the Casa del Capitano del Popolo, you'll reach the end of Via Guglielmi. From there, a gently sloping path leads you to the highest point of the island. Upon reaching the top, you'll encounter the small parish church of San Michele Arcangelo (Google Maps). While the exact construction date of the church remains unknown, the first documents attesting to its existence date back to 1136.

Pieve di San Michele Arcangelo with Isola Minore and Passignano sul Trasimeno in the background.

The church's front face (left) and its bell tower in which one of the two bells bears the date 1291 (right).

From an artistic perspective, I consider the Pieve di San Michele Arcangelo the most intriguing church on the island. The frescoes preserved here form a chronological cycle and showcase styles influenced by renowned masters like Cimabue, Giotto, Piero della Francesca, and Perugino. Now, let me highlight some of the frescoes.

Upon entering the church, you'll find the oldest fresco on your left side. It dates back to 1280-90 and depicts the Madonna and Child. Next to it is a fresco of Sant'Ercolano, holding the gospel in his right hand and a crosier in his left hand. Along the left upright of the frame, part of the plaster layer is missing, revealing an underlying fresco. The emerging fragment displays the tip of an arrow, suggesting the fresco might have represented San Sebastiano.

The oldest fresco depicting the Madonna and Child (left) and the fresco of Sant'Ercolano. On the top left corner you can see the tip of an arrow, suggesting the underlying fresco might have represented San Sebastiano.

The best-kept frescoes can be found in the presbytery and apse of the church. First, have a look at the paintings on the bottom section of the arch. They show Christ among the Apostles. To me, the style of these frescoes brings to mind Giotto's stunning work at the Scrovegni Chapel in Padua.

While looking up, you'll also notice the colorful cross vault with frescoes of the four evangelists: Mark (with a lion next to him), Matthew (next to a kneeling angel), John (with an eagle on his left), and Luke (depicted together with an ox).

Fresco of Mark the Evangelist. You can also see part of the arch with frescoes of Christ among the Apostles.

Painted on the left wall of the apse is a fresco representing two saints: San Sebastiano and San Rocco. They are two of the so-called 'plague saints' believed to protect against the plague and invoke the memory of the human suffering experienced by Christ during the Passion. Adjacent to the two saints is another fresco representing the Madonna and Child. Baby Jesus holds a pomegranate, a fruit considered to be a symbol of the resurrection. Looking closely at the bottom of the painting, you'll notice a small image portraying a miraculous intervention regarding healing.

Fresco of San Bartolomeo and San Rocco (left) and a fresco of the Madonna and Child (right).

The final piece I'd like to highlight is the wooden cross above the altar. At the very top of the cross (in the middle), you can see the image of San Michele Arcangelo, while the crosspiece's ends show the Madonna on the left and San Giovanni Battista on the right. Below them, on a smaller scale, you'll find San Francesco d'Assisi and Mary Magdalene. The skull placed between them symbolizes Golgotha, the site where Jesus was crucified. But where does this reference come from? Well, Golgotha, also known as the Place of the Skull, is believed to be the burial site of Adam. Depicting Jesus on the cross above Adam's skull is a powerful way of telling us that Jesus died for the sins of the world right at the spot where Adam, the first man and original sinner, was laid to rest.

Wooden cross above the altar of the Pieve di San Michele Arcangelo.

Now, let's head back to Via Guglielmi and the ferry. On your way down, you'll likely spot some small shrines dedicated to San Francesco d'Assisi. Isola Maggiore shares a special connection with the saint because, in 1211, this was where he chose to withdraw himself for a short period of fasting. To honor the event, a church and a convent (later transformed into Marquis Giacinto Guglielmi's private villa) were built near the spot where the saint is believed to have reached the shore.

Via Guglielmi, Isola Maggiore

Situated on the western shore of Lago Trasimeno, you'll find the captivating small town of Castiglione del Lago (Google Maps). Recognized for its charming features and historical significance, Castiglione del Lago proudly holds the designation of being one of the "Borghi più belli d'Italia" or "Italy's most beautiful towns."

View of Castiglione del Lago from the Rocca del Leone

Because of its central and strategic location, Castiglione del Lago found itself in the middle of many disputes. Initially contested by the Etruscans and Romans, it later became a battleground for Tuscan cities and Byzantine Perugia. As you can imagine, the town's involvement in so many battles brought a long-lasting cycle of death and destruction.

It wasn't until the reign of Frederick II in the early 13th century that things finally settled down a bit, bringing some much-needed stability to the town.

The Porta Fiorentina (left) and the Porta Perugina (right).

Nowadays, the city walls from the 13th century are still standing, and through its three gates – the Porta Perugina, Porta Senese, and Porta Fiorentina – you can enter the historic center. But that's not all. The most impressive medieval structure in town is undoubtedly the Rocca del Leone (Google Maps). Commissioned by Frederick II, this large fortress stands as one of the most intriguing examples of medieval Umbrian military architecture. I'll get to that later.

Rocca del Leone

After the reign of Frederick II, Castiglione del Lago came under the control of Perugia. It remained under Perugia's authority until Pope Julius II handed the town over to his nephew Ascanio della Corgna in the second half of the 16th century. If you're considering a visit to Castiglione del Lago, remember to put Ascanio's home, Palazzo della Corgna (Google Maps), on your list of places to visit.

The triangular bastion of Rocca del Leone (left) and the front facade of Palazzo della Corgna (right).

The walls and ceilings in Palazzo della Corgna feature vibrant frescoes depicting historical events and mythological figures. Each room takes its name from the subject depicted in the frescoes. Take, for instance, the "Battle Hall of Lake Trasimeno." The frescoes in this room vividly depict the clash between Hannibal's troops and the Roman army in 217 BC near Passignano sul Trasimeno. 

On the other hand, the frescoes in the "Hall of Ascanio's Achievements" portray important political and military events from Ascanio della Corgna's life. Among the most significant scenes is the one narrating the "duel of the century" that unfolded in Pitigliano.

Following an insult from Giovanni Taddei, one of Ascanio's military subordinates, Ascanio challenged Taddei to a duel. The preparations for this duel took nearly two months, during which news of the upcoming event spread widely in the area. On the day of the duel, a large crowd consisting of city residents and soldiers gathered outside the city walls in anticipation of the event.

As the duel kicked off, Taddei took two hits to his right arm, making it difficult to wield his sword effectively. In the end, a third thrust to his torso sealed his fate. The battle was so intense that it earned the name "il duello del secolo," the duel of the century.

Fresco in Palazzo della Corgna illustrating the "duel of the century" between Giovanni Taddei and Ascanio della Corgna (left), and a fresco depicting Caesar's assassination (right).

The last room I want to mention is the "Hall of Caesar," whom Ascanio deeply admired as a great commander. The frescoes in this room unfold the tale of Julius Caesar's achievements and conclude with a depiction of the Ides of March, the infamous date marking Caesar's assassination.

From the Hall of Caesar, a door provides access to a covered walkway connecting the palazzo to the Rocca del Leone. As I already mentioned, the fortress was commissioned by Frederick II and served as a strategic vantage point over Lago Trasimeno. The pentagonal-shaped fortress boasts four towers and a triangular bastion, collectively rendering Rocca del Leone one of the most formidable European castles to conquer.

Today, you can stroll along the walls of Rocca del Leone, explore its towers, and enjoy the splendid views of the lake and the town's surroundings.

A covered walkway connects the palazzo to the Rocca del Leone.

Two of the remaining towers of Rocca del Leone.

Last but not least, I recently stumbled upon an interesting connection between Castiglione del Lago and my home country, the Netherlands. Shortly after the Second World War, a group of Dutch tulip growers settled in the area. They acquired plots of land to cultivate and sell these iconic Dutch flowers. However, many of the tulips' stems didn't grow long enough and couldn't be sold. As a result, the growers decided to decorate the town with the beautiful, short-stemmed tulips. This is how the "Festa del Tulipano e di Primavera" (The Tulip and Spring Festival) came to life.

This beautiful tradition has been kept alive and passed down through the years. Each year, at the end of April, the town bursts with colors and fills the air with sweet floral scents. Unfortunately, I happened to visit the region two weeks too early, but if you find yourself in the area at the end of April, be sure to make a stop in Castiglione del Lago!

Piazza Giuseppe Mazzini (left) and Via del Forte (right).

A last glimpse of the Castiglione del Lago before heading back to the train station.

Other day-trips in Umbria