Gubbio: visit the ‘city of fools’
Gubbio is one of Umbria's hidden gems. The town, also known as the 'city of fools', is located at the foot of Monte Ingino northeast of Perugia. Narrow streets gradually lead you up the hill to the medieval center. Due to the lack of large hordes of tourists, there is a serene atmosphere and you get a good impression of town life.
Combined with the compactness of the town, Gubbio forms a perfect location for a relaxing day trip. But what does Gubbio has to offer? Here's my pick of the must-visit sights and events. Also, don't forget to read my post about the history of Umbria. It might help you put some stories in perspective and get the most out of your trip.
Piazza Grande and Palazzo dei Consoli
Town life on Piazza Giordano Bruno
#1 Palazzo dei Consoli
The first sight is Piazza Grande, Gubbio's main square. It is located right in the middle of the city and from here, you will have a stunning view over the medieval center and the green hinterland.
But that's not all. Located on the square, you’ll find what is perhaps the most iconic monument of Gubbio: the Palazzo dei Consoli. Built between 1332 and 1349, this grand palace was intended to be the seat of government, housing the town’s official courts and institutions.
Since 1909 the Palazzo dei Consoli houses the Civic Museum. The museum's collection is spread over five floors and illustrates the history of Gubbio from prehistoric times to the present day.
View over Gubbio from Palazzo dei Consoli
Palazzo dei Consoli
Among the museum’s most precious artifacts are the Eugubine Tablets. This set of seven inscribed bronze tables was found in 1444 at Iguvium. The tablets were probably produced in the 3rd century BC and are written in the native Umbrian alphabet. They are the longest and most important documents of the ancient Umbrian language.
The palazzo’s bell tower (left), one of several iron rings in animal form on the facade (right)
Eugubine Tablets
Open: Mon - Sun 10:00 to 13:30 / 14:30 to 18:30
Entry fees: Entrance to the museum is €7,-
#2 Fontana dei Matti
As I mentioned earlier, Gubbio is nicknamed the 'city of fools'. Some say this name refers to the unpredictable character of the city's inhabitants. But there is more. In Gubbio, you can become a certified madman. How? Just behind the Palazzo dei Consoli you will find the Fontana dei Matti, or Fountain of the Mad (Google Maps). Here you can earn your license as a 'madman of Gubbio'. According to traditions, all you have to do is run around the fountain three times and find a local to baptize you in the fountain's water.
The whole ritual sounds a bit weird, but there might be some truth in it. Geologic studies of rock formations near Gubbio contain slightly toxic iridium. Maybe this chemical contaminated the waters and caused the strange tradition.
The fountain's official name isn't Fontana dei Matti but Fontana del Bargello. It is named after the small gothic palace it stands in front of. This medieval building is splendidly preserved and is one of the city's most complete and important monuments. The Palazzo del Bargello used to be the police headquarters, but nowadays, it houses a crossbow exhibition.
Fontana dei Matti in front of Palazzo del Bargello
#3 Roman Theater
The Roman Theater of Gubbio was built around 20 BC during the reign of Emperor Augustus. It was the second-largest theater in the Roman Empire, second only to Teatro Marcello in Rome.
Contrary to what is claimed on several websites, the theater of Gubbio was not an amphitheater. Roman theaters were semi-circular and used to host events such as plays and orations. The prefix 'amphi-' means double. So, an amphitheater is a 'double theatre' and has a round or slightly oval shape, like the Colosseum.
Teatro Romano di Gubbio from above, the original semi-circular shape is still clearly visible
Gubbio's Roman theater originally had two rows of arches. Today only the lower arches and some of the upper ones remain standing. The seating section (cavea) could host around 6.000 spectators. This stresses the great importance of the theater and the city at that time. In the turmoil that followed the fall of the Roman Empire, Gubbio was subjected to barbarian invasions and the theater was reused as a defensive structure. Luckily the theater is still in relatively good shape and definitely worth a visit!
It is possible to enter the theater after you’ve bought a ticket at the antiquarium (Google Maps) next to the parking lot. I personally wouldn't do this though. In my oponion it has little added value compared to the view from the adjacent park. Just bring some lunch to picnic on the grass around the monument.
Open: Wed - Sun 8:30 to 19:00, closed on Mondays and Tuesday
Entry fees: Entrance to the theater is €3,-
Teatro Romano di Gubbio from above
#4 San Francesco della Pace
Hidden away on Via Giorgio Mastro is the church of San Francesco della Pace. It looks like an average house with a simple wooden door and a balcony from the outside. If you didn't know there's a church inside, you’ probably walk right past it.
To be honest, the church's interior isn't that noteworthy either. Gubbio's other churches, like the Chiesa di San Francesco (Google Maps) and Chiesa di San Pietro (Google Maps) are much more interesting. Then why did I add this church to this post? Well, because the church of San Francesco della Pace was built on the cave where, according to tradition, the tamed Wolf of Gubbio lived. This wolf plays an important role in Gubbio's history and that of San Francesco. Let me explain.
The church of San Francesco della Pace was built on the cave where, according to tradition, the tamed Wolf of Gubbio lived. Let me explain. According to legend, the Wolf of Gubbio was a wolf that terrorized the city of Gubbio. He was known for lingering outside the city gates in wait for anyone foolish enough to go outside the walls. The city's residents were so scared to leave their protective walls that the city was more or less under siege.
But then San Francesco d'Assisi came along. As soon as the wolf saw Saint Francis, he rushed towards him, ready for the kill. But Francesco wasn't afraid. He made the sign of the cross and commanded the wolf to cease his attacks in the name of God.
The wolf walked over to San Francesco and lay down at his feet. Francesco forbade the wolf to terrorize the city any longer. In agreement, the wolf placed one of his forepaws in the Saint's outstretched hand. Together they walked back peacefully into the city, and the citizens could see that it had been tamed.
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Years later, at the wolf's death, the city was saddened. The people gave the wolf an honorable burial. On top of the wolf's grave, they later built the Church of Saint Francis of the Peace. Inside, you can still see a sarcophagus which is said to be from the tomb of the wolf.
Believe it or not, during renovations in 1872, a skeleton of a large wolf was found under a slab near the church wall. Could it be that of the legendary wolf?
Open: Fri - Sun 10:00 to 13:00 / 15:00 to 17:30
Entry fees: Entrance to the church is €2,-
#5 Basilica di Sant’Ubaldo
On top of the steep Monte Ingino, you find the Basilica di Sant’Ubaldo. The church houses the body of the patron saint of Gubbio, Saint Ubaldo. His sarcophagus is kept atop the main altar on a marble plinth and is surmounted by a glass case.
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There are two ways to reach the basilica. The first option is to hike. It will take approximately 30-40 minutes to walk up the steep path.
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The second option is to take the Funivia Colle Eletto. This is a funicular, but not an ordinary one. You have to stand in a 1-2 person hanging metal basket. It is like standing in a birdcage. This option is much faster than the first one. It takes around 6 minutes to get to the top. From there you have a fantastic mountain view.
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#6 Gubbio’s cultural events
There are three cultural (or religious) events Gubbio is known for: the lighting of the world's largest Christmas tree, Festa dei Ceri, and the Procession of the Dead Christ. So far, I have only been able to attend the latter. Hopefully, the others will follow soon.
The lighting of the world’s largest Christmas tree
Every year, Gubbio is home to the largest Christmas tree in the world. It's not a real tree, but a lighting illumination in the shape of a tree installed on the slopes of Monte Ingino. The project consists of 3,000 colored lights and 8,5 kilometers of electrical cable! The tree's roots sink into the city walls, while the star on top is where the Basilica di Sant'Ubaldo is located.
The lighting of the tree takes place on December 7th at 18:30 from Piazza Gramsci. Every year an important guest is invited to turn on the lights.
Festa dei Ceri
The Festa dei Ceri, also known as Saint Ubaldo Day, is the largest and most important festival in Umbria. It's a tradition dating back over 800 years! The event honors the life of the city's patron saint, Saint Ubaldo. Therefore, it is held annually on May 15th, the eve of his death anniversary.
The most prominent part of the festival is the iconic candle race, known as the Corsa dei Ceri. The race features three tall candles. Each of them has a small statue of a saint on top: Saint Ubaldo, Saint Antonio, and Saint George. Each candle weighs around 400kg. No wonder it takes the strength of 10 men to carry them.
The race starts in Piazza Grande. From there, the enormous candles are carried through the streets of Gubbio while running. They are carried all the (steep) way up to the Basilica of Sant'Ubaldo. The race finishes once they arrive at the Basilica di Sant'Ubaldo. Oh, and of course, Saint Ubaldo's candle always wins.
Procession of the Dead Christ
The Dead Christ Procession is one of Gubbio's most important religious events. The holy representation takes place annually on Good Friday and starts at the Santa Croce Church (Google Maps). From there, the procession runs through the main streets of Gubbio. The procession is full of symbols of the Passion and choirs singing the Misere. During the procession's passage, 'focaroni' (big bond fires) are lit along the way.
For me, witnessing the Procession of the Dead Christ was absolutely breathtaking. The Misere choirs, the bond fires, all taking place in the medieval streets of Gubbio.. It was amazing. Continue reading here to find out more about the Dead Christ Procession and my experience.
Four confraternity members playing the battistrangole
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