Gubbio: Umbria’s medieval gem and charming ‘City of Madmen’
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Every spring, I try to escape to Umbria for a short break. During this time of year the region has something magical that always draws me back. One of my favorite spots to visit is the charming town of Gubbio.
Tucked at the foot of Monte Ingino, Gubbio lies northeast of Perugia, Umbria's capital. The town greets you with narrow, winding streets leading up to its medieval center. Free from the typical tourist crowds, Gubbio feels peaceful and provides an authentic taste of Italian life.
But what makes Gubbio stand out among other towns? Let me share some of my favorite sights and events. Also, make sure to check out my post on Umbria's history. It'll give you a deeper understanding of the stories behind both Gubbio and the region.
Piazza Grande and Palazzo dei Consoli and town life on Piazza Giordano Bruno
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How to reach? |
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Things to do and see |
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How to reach?
The easiest way to reach Gubbio is by car. If you're leaving from Perugia, the drive takes about 30-40 minutes. Once in Gubbio, head to Piazza dei Quaranta Martiri (Google Maps), where there's usually plenty of parking. However, the municipality is redeveloping the entire Piazza, so I don't know if this parking lot will stay open. If it's closed, you can try the parking area next to the Roman Theatre (Google Maps) instead.
To get to Gubbio by public transport, hop on a bus, as the town doesn't have a train station. Buses from Perugia typically depart from Piazza Partigiani (Google Maps), with tickets priced at €5.50 for a one-way trip. The ride takes about 50 minutes to an hour. The bus will drop you off at Piazza dei Quaranta Martiri, at the edge of Gubbio's historic center. From there, you can easily explore the town on foot.
#1 Palazzo dei Consoli
One of the first places you'll encounter is Gubbio's main square, Piazza Grande (Google Maps). Situated in the heart of the city, this square offers a great view of the medieval center and the green hinterland.
View over Gubbio from Palazzo dei Consoli
Piazza Grande is home to one of Gubbio's most iconic monuments: the Palazzo dei Consoli. Built between 1332 and 1349, the impressive palace served as the seat of government, housing the town's official courts and institutions.
Today, the Palazzo dei Consoli serves as the Civic Museum. Since 1909, it has housed a collection that spans five floors, illustrating Gubbio's history from prehistoric times to the present day.
Palazzo dei Consoli. The palazzo’s bell tower (left), one of several iron rings in animal form on the facade (right)
The Eugubine Tablets rank among the museum's most precious artifacts. Discovered in 1444 at Iguvium, this collection of seven inscribed bronze tables likely dates back to the 3rd century BC and is written in the native Umbrian alphabet. They represent the longest and most significant documents of the ancient Umbrian language.
Eugubine Tablets
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#2 Fontana dei Matti
People sometimes humorously nickname Gubbio the "city of madmen." Why? Because in Gubbio, you can actuallybecome a certified madman. Just head to the Fontana dei Matti, or Fountain of the Mad (Google Maps), located right behind the Palazzo dei Consoli.
Before moving on, just a quick note: the fountain's real name isn't Fontana dei Matti, but Fontana del Bargello, named after the small Gothic palace in front of it. The medieval building is really well-preserved and is one of the city's most important landmarks. It used to be the police headquarters, but now it hosts a crossbow exhibition.
Fontana dei Matti in front of Palazzo del Bargello
Now, let's get back to your quest to become a certified madman! When you reach the fountain, find a genuine Eugubino (a local inhabitant of Gubbio) and make a contribution to the Maggio Eugubino Association. Next, run three laps around the fountain and get 'baptized' with the water from it. Once you pass this test, the Association will award you a parchment written in medieval style. Congratulations! You can now proudly call yourself a 'madman of Gubbio!'
The entire ritual may sound strange, but it could hold some truth. Geologic studies of rock formations near Gubbio reveal slightly toxic iridium. Perhaps this chemical contaminated the waters and led to the unusual tradition.
#3 Roman Theater
Just outside Gubbio's old city walls, remnants of an ancient Roman theater await you. Built around 20 BC during the reign of Emperor Augustus, it was the second-largest theater in the Roman Empire. It was surpassed only by Teatro di Marcello in Rome!
Several websites claim that the theater of Gubbio was an amphitheater, but that's not true. Roman theaters were semi-circular and used for events like plays and speeches. The prefix "amphi-" means double. So, an amphitheater is basically a "double theater" with a round or slightly oval shape, just like the Colosseum.
Teatro Romano di Gubbio from above, the original semi-circular shape is still clearly visible
Gubbio's theater originally featured two rows of arches. Today, only the lower arches and some of the upper ones still stand. The seating section (cavea) could accommodate around 6,000 spectators. This highlights the theater's significance and the city's prominence at that time. After the fall of the Roman Empire, Gubbio experienced barbarian invasions. As a result, the theater was reused as a defensive structure. Fortunately, the theater remains in relatively good condition.
Teatro Romano di Gubbio from above
You can check out the theater if you'd like. Just get a ticket at the antiquarium next to the parking lot. I haven't done it myself because I think the view from the nearby park is just as good. If the weather's nice, I recommend bringing some lunch and having a picnic on the grass around the monument. It's a great spot to relax!
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#4 San Francesco della Pace
Tucked away on Via Giorgio Mastro, you'll find the Church of San Francesco della Pace. From the outside, it resembles an average house with a simple wooden door and a balcony. If you didn't know there was a church inside, you'd probably walk right past it.
Honestly, the interior of the church isn't particularly impressive either. Other churches in Gubbio, like the Chiesa di San Francesco (Google Maps) and the Chiesa di San Pietro (Google Maps), offer more inspiring architecture and art. So why did I include this church in my post? Because the church of San Francesco della Pace was built on the cave where, according to tradition, the tamed Wolf of Gubbio lived. This wolf holds an important place in Gubbio's history and in the story of San Francesco. Let me explain.
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According to legend, the Wolf of Gubbio once terrorized the city of Gubbio. He would linger outside the city gates, waiting for anyone foolish enough to venture beyond the walls. The residents were so frightened to leave their protective walls that the city was effectively under siege.
Then San Francesco from Assisi showed up. When the wolf spotted him, he rushed towards him, ready to attack. But Francesco stood his ground and wasn't afraid. He made the sign of the cross and told the wolf to stop his attacks in the name of God.
The wolf approached San Francesco and lay down at his feet. Francesco commanded the wolf to stop terrorizing the city. In response, the wolf placed one of his forepaws in the Saint's outstretched hand. Together, they peacefully walked back into the city, and the citizens could see that the wolf had been tamed.
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Years later, when the wolf died, the city mourned. The people gave him an honorable burial and later built the Church of San Francesco della Pace on top of his grave. Inside, you can still see a sarcophagus that's said to be from the wolf's tomb.
Believe it or not, workers discovered a skeleton of a large wolf under a slab near the church wall during renovations in 1872. Could it belong to the legendary wolf?
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#5 Basilica di Sant'Ubaldo
Perched atop the steep Monte Ingino, you find the Basilica di Sant'Ubaldo. As you step inside, you'll notice the five naves and an interior that has evolved over the centuries. The marble altar, adorned with mosaics depicting saints, holds a bronze urn. Inside, the body of Saint Ubaldo, Gubbio's beloved patron saint, is preserved. The colorful glass windows in the apse and chapels tell the story of Ubaldo's life, adding to the basilica's atmosphere.
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You can reach the basilica in two different ways. I prefer to hike up, which takes around 30-40 minutes. The hairpin turns along the route offer great views of the medieval town and the surrounding countryside.
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The second option is to ride the Funivia Colle Eletto. This funicular isn't your ordinary one; you'll stand in a hanging metal basket designed for 1-2 people, similar to a birdcage. This option is much faster than the first one, taking only about 6 minutes to reach the top. Once you arrive, you get a fantastic view of the mountains.
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#6 Gubbio's cultural events
Gubbio hosts several cultural events throughout the year. Examples include the Palio della Balestra (last Sunday in May) and the Torneo dei Quartieri (August 14th). Both events celebrate the town's medieval traditions and focus on shooting with medieval crossbows.
However, there are three cultural (or religious) events that Gubbio is especially known for, even internationally. I'm talking about the lighting of the world's largest Christmas tree, the Festa dei Ceri, and the Procession of the Dead Christ. So far, I've only been able to attend the latter. Hopefully, I'll get to experience the others soon!
Four confraternity members playing the battistrangole
The lighting of the world’s largest Christmas tree
Every year, Gubbio hosts the world's largest Christmas tree. It's not a real tree, but a light installation shaped like one, set up on the slopes of Monte Ingino. The project features 3,000 colored lights and 8.5 kilometers of electrical cable! The tree's roots stretch down into the city walls, while the star on top marks the spot of the Basilica di Sant'Ubaldo. The lighting ceremony happens on December 7th at 6:30 PM from Piazza Gramsci, and each year, an important guest gets to flip the switch!
Festa dei Ceri
The Festa dei Ceri, or Saint Ubaldo Day, is the biggest and most important festival in Umbria. This tradition has been going strong for over 800 years! The event celebrates the life of the city's patron saint, Saint Ubaldo. It takes place every year on May 15th, the eve of his death anniversary.
The festival's highlight is the famous candle race called the Corsa dei Ceri. In this race, three tall candles stand out, each topped with a small statue of a saint: Saint Ubaldo, Saint Antonio, and Saint George. Weighing about 400 kg, it's no surprise that it takes the strength of 10 men to carry them!
The race kicks off in Piazza Grande. From there, runners carry the huge candles through the streets of Gubbio, all the way up the steep hill to the Basilica of Sant'Ubaldo. The race wraps up when they reach the basilica. And, of course, Saint Ubaldo's candle always takes the win!
Procession of the Dead Christ
The origins of the Processione del Cristo Morto, or the Procession of the Dead Christ, trace back to medieval times. During this period, religious dramas and reenactments were common forms of expression aimed at bringing biblical stories more alive. The Procession of the Dead Christ is what remains of these dramas and forms a symbolic representation of the Passion of Christ.
The event takes place annually on Good Friday and starts at the Santa Croce Church. From there, the procession gradually moves through Gubbio's four neighborhoods. You'll notice immediately that many of the participating fraternity members wear white hooded tunics covering their entire faces. Furthermore, the procession is full of symbols of the Passion. Each symbol serves as a visual reminder of Christ's suffering and death, as described in the Gospel. Among the symbols are the crown of thorns, the rooster that crowed after Peter's third denial of Jesus, and the ladder used for the Deposition.
As the group progresses, each quarter lights a 'focarone' (big bond fire). As you can see from the photos, it's pretty eerie to witness these enormous bonfires and hooded confraternity members walking along.
All combined, witnessing the Procession of the Dead Christ was absolutely breathtaking. Continue reading here to find out more about the procession and my experience.
