Hike to Eremo delle Carceri: the isolated hermitage
Interested in the life of San Francesco d'Assisi, or simply want to enjoy Umbria's nature? I can recommend a hike to the Eremo delle Carceri.
The Eremo delle Carceri is a hermitage located about 5 kilometers from the historic center of Assisi. The name 'Carceri' is derived from Latin. It means 'isolated places' or 'prisons.' It refers to small caves where San Francesco and his followers retreated to meditate and pray in solitude and silence.
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San Francesco first arrived at the site in 1205. Back then, the rocky area only had some caves used as 'cells' for individual friars and a small central oratory where they gathered to pray. Later in the 15th century, a monastery was added. This monastery was expanded over the centuries.
But before telling you more about the Eremo delle Carceri, I'll describe the trail to the hermitage.
The hike to Eremo delle Carceri
As I mentioned, the Eremo delle Carceri is about 5 kilometers from the center of Assisi. But, be aware, it is also 791 meters above sea level. This equals a long walk uphill. A good condition is therefore required. I also recommend that you wear walking shoes. Especially on rainy days, because some steep parts can become very slippery. The first time I went up on my All Stars... Not a good idea. Oh, and before I forget, bring enough water for when you get thirsty.
Now that you're all set, here we go! The hike starts in front of the Chiesa di Santa Caterina (Google Maps). When facing the church, turn right and follow SP251.
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Within minutes you will arrive at one of the old city gates. After walking through this gate, you will almost immediately see a walking path on your left.
Take the path until you reach the Rocca Minore. From here, you follow the path (trail 50) that curves off to the right. You can recognize the route to Eremo delle Carceri by red/white painted stripes painted on several trees along the path.
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Follow the path (which gets steeper and steeper) until you reach a three-way split. Take the middle path, indicated by the red/white signs.
After the split, you are about halfway. The route continues uphill, but luckily you can enjoy the wonderful view of the Umbrian landscape along the way.
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When you are almost at the top, the path becomes flatter. Walk along the short ridge until you reach the SP251. Once there, follow the road to the right until you see a small parking lot. The entrance to Eremo delle Carceri is right behind it.
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Well done, you have made it! In total, it took me about 1.5 hours to reach the hermitage. What about you?
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Eremo delle Carceric
From the courtyard of the complex, you can enter the ancient oratory of Santa Maria. It is the small oratory where San Francesco and his brothers came together for common prayer.
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On the side of the oratory, a narrow passage leads down to the Grotto di San Francesco. This is the cave where the Saint is said to have isolated himself to pray and meditate.
When you exit the cave, you will see a path that leads into the forest. A walk through the forest takes you past the caves and the chapels where other companions of the Saint retreated.
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You can also see a centuries-old holm oak at the beginning of the forest. According to legend, this is the tree on which the birds have gathered to be blessed by San Francesco.
"O birds, my dear brothers and sisters," the Saint said, "you should always praise your Creator. For God has given you feathers and wings for flying. He provides you with pure air and cares for you, so that you have no need to worry at all."
Inside the Basilica di San Francesco in Assisi there is a famous fresco by Giotto that portrays this scene.
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Practical information
Address: | Via Eremo delle Carceri, 38, Assisi (Google Maps) |
Open: | Mon - Sat 6:30 to 19:00, Sun 7:15 to 19:00 |
Entree fees: | Entrance to the hermitage is free |