Erice: Sicily’s ancient hilltop town
From atop a 751 meters high plateau, Erice towers over western Sicily. The medieval village is characterized by charismatic narrow streets, gray stone houses, and many old churches. However, Erice's history goes back much further than the Middle Ages.
The ancient name of Erice was Eryx. According to Thucydides (an ancient Greek historian), Erice was founded by the Elymians. Thucydides describes the Elymians as Trojans who had fled from the Achaeans and eventually settled in Sicily. Together with the Phoenicians, they founded the cities of Egesta and Eryx. The town of Eryx soon became known for its temple. It was used by the Phoenicians to worship Astarte, a goddess associated with love, beauty, and fertility.
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According to Greek mythology, the temple was actually built by the Trojan hero Aeneas, the son of Aphrodite and brother to king Eryx. Whether this is true is unknown. What we do know, however, is that the temple was dedicated to Aphrodite (the Greek equivalent of Astarte) after the Greeks had conquered Eryx.
Centuries later, the Romans re-dedicated the temple to their equivalent of Astarte and Aphrodite: Venus. The Temple of Venus was famous in its day as the site of sacred prostitution. Sailors and pilgrims visiting Sicily climbed Mount Erice to reach the temple and to participate in sexual rituals with the holy human embodiments of Venus.
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Over the course of the 1st century, however, the new religion of Christianity began to spread slowly and steadily throughout the Roman Empire. As a result, the pagan temple gradually fell into disrepair and was eventually completely destroyed.
Virtually nothing is left of what once was the most important building of Eryx. Fortunately, the modern city of Erice has many other monuments from different periods of history. This makes Erice the perfect place for a day trip from Palermo or Trapani. Let me tell you more about the best things to see and do in Erice. Are you ready?
How to get there?
Before guiding you through Erice, let me tell you how to get there. Usually, this is the boring part, but getting to Erice is quite an experience on its own.
The most exciting way to get to Erice is by taking the Trapani-Erice Funivia (cable car). In just 10 minutes, the funivia will take you to Erice. Along the way, you have a spectacular panoramic view of Trapani, its ancient salt pans, and the Egadi Islands. The cable car runs every day, except on Mondays when it opens at 14:00. A one-way ticket to Erice costs €6,00, and a round-trip ticket costs €9,50 (2022).
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The start station of the funivia is located just outside the center of Trapani (Google Maps). It can easily be reached by bus (linea 203) though. If you have a (rental) car, you can park it at the paid parking next to the station.
Erice can, of course, also be reached by car. This is what I've done. I drove from San Vito lo Capo to Erice. If you go by car, be prepared for narrow mountain roads, many hairpin bends, and breathtaking views.
The historic center of Erice cannot be reached by car. Therefore, you will have to park your car on the edge of the city. Fortunately, there are several (paid) parking lots. The two most accessible parking places are near Porta Trapani, next to the funivia’s end station (Google Maps), and the parking at Via S. Giovanni (Google Maps).
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#1 Chiesa Matrice
Despite being a small historic town, you will find many churches in Erice's center. No surprise that Erice is also called the 'city of a hundred churches' (a nickname also given to the Tuscan city of Lucca). Most of these churches are not as grand or charming as the ones in Sicily's larger cities. But suppose there is one church you should definitely visit. In that case, it's the Duomo di Erice, commonly known as the Chiesa Matrice. The church is just a few steps away from the Porta Trapani. As this is also the end station of the cable car, the Chiesa Matrice is a great place to start your visit to Erice.
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Built with stones from the Temple of Venus, the Chiesa Matrice dates back to the 14th century. Its facade is mainly characterized by the portico in front of the entrance. The portico is called the 'Gibbena' (from the Latin 'agi bene', meaning 'behave well') and was added in the 15th century to accommodate penitents who weren't allowed to partake in the mass.
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As soon as you enter the Chiesa Matrice, one thing immediately grabs your attention: the church's Gothic rib vault. Just sit down and take some time to gaze at the beautiful and elegant arabesque decorations. I'm not exaggerating when I say this is one of the most beautiful vaults I've seen.
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Another showpiece of the Duomo di Erice is its main altar. The enormous altarpiece of Carrara marble depicts the life of Jesus. You can see the Virgin Mary seated on a throne with a child in her arms in the central niche. Higher up, you'll find panels with scenes from the Passion of Christ. Crowning the work is the tympanum that presents the birth of Jesus.
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After visiting the Chiesa Matrice, don't forget to climb the adjacent campanile (bell tower). In the late 15th century, the tower was built atop an old watchtower and rises 28 meters. You can reach the top with a staircase of 108 steps. From up there, you look out over the medieval streets of Erice and the beautiful surroundings.
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Open: Mon - Sun 9:30 to 13:00 / 15:30 to 17:30
Entry fees: Entrance to the church is € 2,-
#2 The Balio Gardens
Now let's move on to the eastern part of Erice. You can get there by walking through the center, but I suggest walking down Viale Conte Pepoli (Google Maps). From this street, you have a view over the valley below.
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At the end of the street are some steps that lead up to Giardino del Balio, or the Balio Gardens (Google Maps). This park, laid out in the English style, breathes an air of tranquility and peace. The perfect place to rest your feet and relax in the shade. Moreover, from the Balio Gardens, you’ve the most beautiful view over western Sicily!
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There is a medieval fortress on the edge of the park with three towers (Google Maps). It is named the Castello del Balio (or Torri del Ballo) and was built in the Norman period as an advanced defense of the Castle of Venus. Both the castle's and the garden's names derive from Baiulo, the Norman governor who lived here.
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Of course, the English-style Balio Gardens were added much later. In 1872 count Agostino Pepoli was granted the lease of the Torri del Ballo so that they could be renovated. Pepoli then added the gardens to further enhance the location.
If you have time, just sit down and soak up the atmosphere and beautiful views!
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#3 Castello di Venere
Behind the Torri del Ballo, perched on an isolated cliff in the southeastern tip of Erice, you'll find Castello di Venere. The castle dates back to the 12th century (Norman period) and is built on the site where the Roman Temple of Venus once stood.
In Norman times, the castle must have looked like an impregnable fortress. It was connected to the Torri del Balio by a drawbridge, which was later replaced by the viaduct still existing today. Also, notice the plumbing hole above the castle's entrance. It was used to hinder the enemy and testifies to the defensive character of the fortress.
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Today there is not much left of the castle other than its walls. You can explore the inner courtyard if you want, but I honestly found this a bit disappointing. So, if you don't have much time, I suggest you just admire the Castello di Venere from the outside. You won't miss much.
The inner courtyard of the castle is filled with ruined foundations. Worth mentioning are the Well of Venus and the Wall of Daedalus (described below). Most spectacular, however, are the panoramic views over the surrounding landscape of Trapani on one side and the peninsula of San Vito lo Capo on the other.
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Well of Venus
The Well of Venus is said to be a purifying bath in which the goddess and priestesses bathed. However, it is little more than just a large cistern excavated in the rocky bank, used to contain the water collected on the esplanade where the temple was.
Wall of Daedalus
Most of the inner courtyard walls are part of the Norman castle. However, a wall section at the northern point of the grounds dates back much further (4th or 3rd century BC). This means the wall might have been part of the Temple of Venus' outer wall.
The section of the wall is named the Wall of Daedalus. It is said to have been built by.. Yes, Daedalus. In Greek mythology, Daedalus was a skillful architect. You might know him from the famous myth of Daedalus and Icarus (his son). To escape from the tyranny of King Minos, Daedalus made wax wings for himself and Icarus. Before taking off, Daedalus warned his son not to fly too near to the sun, but the stubborn Icarus didn't listen. The wax started to melt, and eventually, he plunged down into the sea. After losing his son, Daedalus came to the temple in Eryx to pay homage to Aphrodite. While staying in Eryx, he may have also built the wall that now bears his name.
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Open: Mon - Sun 10:00 to 19:00, closed from November to March
Entry fees: Entrance to the castle is € 4,-
#4 Torretta Pepoli
Next to Castello di Venere you will find a smaller second castle: the Torretta Pepoli (Google Maps). Located in a scenic position on the slopes of Mount Erice, it is one of the town's most representative historical monuments.
The Torretta Pepoli takes its name from its builder, count Agostino Pepoli. In 1870 Pepoli ordered the castle's construction to use it as a place to carry out his studies and to host befriended artists, writers, and politicians. Imagine the splendid views his guests must have had when they looked through one of the many windows in the morning!
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What I liked most about the Pepoli Tower were the different architectural styles. You can clearly see medieval, Moorish, and some hints of Liberty elements, all in perfect harmony with each other. The black and white ceramic tiles, recalling the Pepoli coat of arms, complete the building.
In 2014 the Torretta Pepoli was renovated and entitled Observatory of Peace and Lighthouse of the Mediterranean. Since then, the charming building has been open to visitors.. until the beginning of the COVID pandemic. Since then, the Pepoli Tower appears to be closed. Hopefully it will open again soon.
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#5 Maria Grammatico’s pastry shop
After a bit of sightseeing, it's time for a treat! As you stroll through the medieval streets of Erice, I'm sure that sooner or later, you'll be drawn toward La Pasticceria di Maria Grammatico (Google Maps). This is one of the most famous pastry shops in Sicily!
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Italy has a rich tradition of pastries and desserts. Still, Sicily's 'dolci' are different from those originating from other regions. Sicilian sweets are influenced by the many different occupiers that have ruled the island. They contain ingredients like almonds and oranges, introduced by the Arabs, and cacao beans, brought from the New World by the Spaniards. Thanks to the creativity of Sicilian cloistered nuns, many of these ingredients were used to develop the island's heavenly and irresistible delicacies.
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At the age of 11, Maria Grammatico was sent to the San Carlo Convent. Here she led a life of hard work and solitude, but the nuns also taught her how to make 'pasta di mandorla' and marzipan.
After living in the convent for 15 years, Maria decided to open a small shop to share her pastries with the rest of the world. She didn't have the money to buy almonds though, and had to start her business with only three kilos! However, her pastries were in high demand, allowing her business to grow. Today, La Pasticceria di Maria Grammatico is known throughout Sicily and beyond.
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In the summer, Maria Grammatico's pastry shop can be bustling. However, it's a lovely place to have an espresso and try some sweet delicacies outside the high season. The perfect way to relax and enjoy!
There is quite a variety of pastries to choose from. But why choose? Take my advice and just order a small selection. Also, let me know which pastry you liked the most! My absolute favorites were the Cannolo Siciliano and the Genovese.
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#6 Chiesa di Sant'Orsola
Now let's explore the northern part of the town. To get here, you'll have to make a slight detour eastwards. Just navigate to Via Piscina Apollinis (Google Maps). Once there, turn left and follow the path.
After a five-minute walk with beautiful views, you come to a fork. The path on the right leads to the Quartiere Spagnolo, an ancient fortress built in the 17th century to accommodate Spanish soldiers. If you go left, you'll find one of Erice's less frequently visited churches: the Chiesa di Sant'Orsola.
Surrounded by greenery, the small religious building dates back to the 15th century and consists of two naves. The oldest (main) nave is dedicated to Saint Ursula. You can see a statue of her on the main altar. In 1450 the church was enlarged with the addition of a second nave dedicated to Saint Mary of Jesus.
The Chiesa di Sant'Orsola is a rare example for Erice of the coexistence of Renaissance and Gothic styles. Have a look at the rib vaults, the Renaissance works of art, and the remains of medieval frescoes. The floor is covered with 16th-century majolica, which blends in beautifully!
View from Via Piscina Apollinis with the Quartiere Spagnolo on the left
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Fun fact: have you seen The Godfather III? The Chiesa di Sant'Orsola appeared in the movie as the entrance to the convent where Michael Corleone meets Cardinal Lamberto for his confession. Do you recognize the place?
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Open: Unfortunately I couldn't find the opening hours
Entry fees: Entrance to the church is free
#7 The Cyclopean Wall
Near to the Chiesa di Sant'Orsola is the Porta Spada (Google Maps). It is one of the gateways in Erice's ancient city wall, dating from the 8th century BC. The mighty wall enclosed the northwestern side of the peak of Mount Erice, which was the only one exposed to possible attacks. From Porta Spada, it stretches for about 700 meters, all the way to Porta Trapani (Google Maps).
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As you walk through the Porta Spada, you will see a narrow path on your left. The trail leads you along the wall to the intermediate gate, the Porta Carmine (Google Maps).
The lower part of the city wall is characterized by larger, more ancient boulders. The Greeks believed that only mythical Cyclopes had the strength to move the gigantic stone blocks. This gave the wall its nickname 'Cyclopean Wall'.
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If you look closely at the megalithic blocks, you'll notice that some of them are incised with letters (ain, beth, and phe) of the Punic alphabet. Probably these letters were used to distinguish the different stones, but there are other interpretations as well. Some say that 'ain' means eyes, 'phe' means mouth, and 'beth' means house. Together they can be interpreted as: "The walls have eyes to see the enemy, a mouth to eat him when attacked and they are the safe house for the inhabitants." This may seem a little far-fetched, but who knows.
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In the Middle Ages, the walls were raised with narrower ashlars and equipped with 25 watchtowers. The remains of 16 towers are still clearly visible. Next to it, you will often find small openings in the wall that allowed the passage of the town's inhabitants and supplies.
