Spello: Umbria’s most colorful town
Sometimes people ask me whether the many medieval streets make Umbrian towns look gray or drab. In my view, they absolutely don’t! The medieval streets and buildings give Umbrian cities a unique and atmospheric appearance. If you are really looking for a little more color though, I recommend visiting Spello during the spring/summer. Why? I'll get to that later.
Spello from above
Spello is a small village located between Assisi and Foligno. Like Assisi, the town rises from the slopes of Monte Subasio. This means that a visit to Spello equals two things: walking uphill and stunning views.
Are you looking for a place to relax and enjoy all the delicacies that Umbria has to offer? Then Spello is the place to be! I am sure the serene, authentic atmosphere will not disappoint you. Because Spello is only a tiny village, it is also a perfect destination for a day trip. Keep in mind though that some of the must-sees are only open during the weekend.
Below you’ll find a mini-guide that shows you the best places to visit in Spello. It is based on a recent (April 2022) day trip of mine. I’m looking forward to hearing which one is your favorite!
Also, don't forget to read my post about the history of Umbria. It might help you put some stories in perspective and get the most out of your trip.
#1 Old city gates
The historic center of Spello is largely surrounded by medieval walls built on Roman foundations. Some of the old city gates are still standing. You will definitely pass by three of them: the Porta Consolare, Porta Urbica, and the Porta Venere.
Porta Consolare
I arrived in Spello by train and walked down Via Guglielmo Marconi towards the historic center. After less than 10 minutes, I arrived at the first old city gate, the Porta Consolare (Google Maps). You can recognize this gate from a distance by the adjacent tower with a tree on top.
Porta Consolare
The lower part of the Porta Consolare dates from 41 BC. There used to be Roman towers on either side of the gate. These were replaced by the current tower and a house in the Middle Ages.
Three statues are placed above the central passage of the gate. They were part of a sarcophagus discovered near the Roman amphitheater just outside Spello. These were added to the port later.
Close-up of one of the three statues (left), and the adjacent tower with a tree on top (right)
Porta Urbica
The next gate is only a stonethrow away. Just turn left from the Porta Consolare and keep following the city wall. Within 3 minutes, you will arrive at the Porta Urbica (Google Maps).
Compared to the other Roman gates in Spello, the Porta Urbica is the most authentic one and is still largely intact. Above the arch, you can see an inscription that mentions the Roman poet Propertius. The poet is said to have been born in Spello around 50-45 BC. In reality, however, Propertius was from Assisi.
Porta Urbica
On the right side of the gate, you will find a reference to another historical person: the paladin Orlando. According to legend, the paladin passed through Spello. To show his immense strength, he is said to have urinated against the city wall. The result? A dent in the wall, about 90 centimeters from the ground. What strength he had..!
Dent in the wall supposedly caused by Orlando. Above it is an Latin inscription referring to the paladin (left), and detail of the port's small tower (right)
Porta Venere
The most impressive gate can be found west of Spello. You can recognize the Porta Venere (Google Maps) from a distance by the two dodecagonal towers. These towers are called the Torri di Properzio, the Towers of Propertius. Here too you will find a reference to the Roman poet Propertius.
The Torri di Properzio date back to the Middle Ages. The Porta Venere itself dates back to 27 BC. Its name probably comes from a previous temple dedicated to the Roman goddess Venus.
Image text
#2 Villa dei Mosaici di Spello
In 2005, a Roman complex of considerable size was discovered near the Porta Consolare. A total of 20 different rooms were brought to light. Many of them are decorated with beautiful mosaics.
The rooms were part of a large villa of which the oldest parts date from the Augustan Era (27 BC to 14 AD). The rest of the complex dates from the 2nd or 3rd century AD. The entire complex provides a unique insight into the everyday life of ancient Hispellum (the old Roman name of Spello).
Villa dei Mosaici di Spello
The excavated part of the villa covers an area of approximately 500 square meters. Do realize that this is only the central part of the villa. Some rooms, like the atrium, vestibulum, and the tablina are missing. The whole complex was thus even bigger. This means that the owner must have been extremely wealthy and powerful. Despite this, the owner is unknown.
After excavating the villa, a museum was built in 2018: the Villa dei Mosaici di Spello. Here you can walk between/over the remains of the villa. The most interesting remains are the polychrome mosaic floors of 10 of the 20 rooms. The rooms without mosaic flooring were most likely used as service rooms.
Overview of Villa dei Mosaici di Spello (in front is the Bird Room)
Mosaics and remains of a decorated wall
The mosaic floors feature many geometric elements, (wild) animals, mythical creatures, and a wine-pouring scene. The latter has led to the assumption that the owner may have been a wealthy wine merchant. However, the presence of a wine pouring scene in a dining room could also point to the fact that this room was used for drinking parties.
My favorite mosaic floor was that of the triclinium (dining room), the villa's main room. In the middle of the floor, you see the aforementioned wine-pouring scene. Around it there are figures depicting the four seasons. The rest of the floor is characterized by mosaics of animals such as a panther, a wild boar, and a rabbit. Which mosaic is your favorite?
Remains of a heated room. The brick pillars made it possible for hot air, conveyed by a furnace, to circulate and heat the villa
Open: Opening hours differ per month, check the latest info (here)
Entry fees: Entrance to the museum is €6,-
Details of mosaic the the triclinium’s floor
#3 Chiesa di Santa Maria Maggiore
One of the things that stood out to me the most is the church of Santa Maria Maggiore. At first, it looks like an average church, but the paintings inside are of great value.
To the left of the nave, you will find the Baglioni Chapel. The frescoes in this chapel were painted in 1501 by Bernardino di Betto, known as Pinturicchio (meaning 'little painter'). As you might have guessed, Bernardino owes this nickname to his small stature. Pinturicchio was one of the greatest artists of the Umbrian and Italian Renaissance.
Image text
The frescoes in the Baglioni Chapel depict episodes from the life of Mary and Jesus. On the left wall, you can see the Annunciation. The Adoration of the Shepherds is painted on the central wall, and Christ among the Doctors on the right one. The chapel's vault shows Four Sibyls. Sadly, today much of the chapel's charm has been squandered by the use of glass panels, exaggerated lighting, speakers, and mirrors. But try to ignore this and enjoy the many details in the paintings.
Image text
Annunciation
The left wall features the Annunciation. In this scene, Pinturicchio placed the figures of Mary and the angel Gabriel in a large Renaissance loggia. Gabriel kneels before Mary while holding a white flower in his hand. It is a symbol of her virginal purity.
Image text
God is depicted on a cloud in the top left corner. He sends a ray of light with a white dove towards Mary. It symbolizes how Jesus was conceived to Mary by the Holy Spirit without disrupting her virginity.
Behind Mary and Gabriel, you see the Hortus Conclusus. The enclosed garden represents Mary's closed-off womb and Mary being protected from sin.
Another interesting detail can be seen on the right. Can you spot the painting hanging on the wall? It is a self-portrait of Pinturicchio.
Image text
Adoration of the Shepherds
The central wall shows the Adoration of the Shepherds. In the foreground, you see Mary, Joseph, baby Jesus, and the shepherds who come to honor him. To the left, behind the shepherds, are the Magi who have just arrived. The scene is set in an idyllic landscape and is rich in detail. For example, take a look at the roof of the stable. Can you see the peacock? It symbolizes immortality.
Image text
Christ among the Doctors
On the right wall, you can see Christ among the Doctors, an episode from the early life of Jesus. At the age of twelve, Jesus accompanied Mary and Joseph to Jerusalem. On the day of their return, Jesus stayed in the Temple. It took Mary and Joseph a day to realize Jesus was missing. The losing of Jesus is the third of the Seven Sorrows of Mary.
When Mary and Joseph finally found Jesus, he had a theological dispute with the Temple's scholars. This is clearly depicted in Pinturicchio's fresco. You can see the young Christ standing on the central axis of the composition, in front of the Temple of Jerusalem. His books are scattered on the pavement. By contrast, the scholars either clutch their books to their chests or read from them.
Image text
Four Sibyls
On the chapel vault, four enthroned sibyls (Tiburtina, Eritrea, European, and Samia) are depicted. Sibyls were oracles in Ancient Greece and prophesied at holy sites. On both sides of their thrones are inscribed altars: prophecies of the coming of Jesus.
Image text
Open: Fri - Sat 9:30 to 12:30, Fri - Sun 15:30 to 17:00
Entry fees: Entrance to the chapel is €3,-
#4 Enjoy the view
Because Spello is built against the foot of Monte Subasio, you will find some beautiful viewpoints in the historic center. My favorite points are:
Porta dell'Arce
One of the most beautiful views can be found at the Porta dell'Arce (Google Maps). This gateway was probably part of an old pre-Augustan wall, of which no traces remain. Only the arch of ashlars is preserved. When standing underneath it, you see that it consists of two arches. I think the slit between the two was meant to lower some sort of portcullis.
From the Porta dell'Arce you have a great view over the Topino Valley. On a clear day, you can see Assisi in the distance.
Image text
Bar Giardino Bonci
If you want to rest your feet and have a drink, I recommend going to Bar Giardino Bonci (Google Maps). Their fabulous garden offers a fantastic panoramic view over the valley!
Image text
Chiesa di Sant'Andrea
The third spot can be found behind the church of Sant'Andrea (Google Maps). You only have to walk through the passage on the left side of the church.
Image text
#5 Infiorate di Spello
From spring to the end of summer, Spello is the most colorful town in Umbria. Why? There are two reasons.
First of all, every spring, a competition erupts in Spello (Finestre, Balconi e Vicoli Fioriti). Inhabitants of Spello do their utmost to decorate their windows, balconies, and facades with flowers as beautifully as possible. The medieval alleys are soon decorated with beautiful plants and flowers in all colors. Some houses also have a special placard hanging on their facade. This placard shows that the owner has won the competition in the past.
Image text
What makes Spello even more colorful is the 'Infiorate.' This event is held on the ninth Sunday after Easter to celebrate Corpus Christi. During this famous flower festival, the streets of Spello are not only decorated by the already colorful facades but also by artistic carpets made of flower petals. The night before the Infiorate (Notte dei fiori), the petals are laid out in beautiful patterns. Quite a precision job! If you want, you can watch the carpets being created. It is even possible to experience being one of the 'infioratori' yourself by partaking in the Infiorata dei turisti.
Unfortunately, I was unable to attend the Infiorate myself. Luckily there is a small museum (Google Maps) where you can see photos and sketches of the past Infiorate di Spello. So, if you can't make it to the Infiorate, I would recommend visiting the museum. It might give you an idea of the beauty of the event.
Image text
Image text
