Trevi: Umbria’s capital of olive oil
Between Foligno and Spoleto, the medieval town of Trevi rises from the slopes of Monte Serano. Most of the town is densely built around the hilltop, offering you some of the best views in Umbria. On a clear day, the view extends all the way up to Perugia. Closer by, you mainly see olive groves. No wonder Trevi is well known for its high-quality olive oil, but I will come to that later on.
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Like several other picturesque Umbrian villages, Trevi is listed as one of 'I Borghi più belli d'Italia' or most beautiful villages in Italy. In my opinion, the town definitely deserves a place on that list. I have visited Trevi twice: on a foggy winter's day when the village proudly rose out of the clouds, and during spring when the bright colors really made the town come to life. Both times I was amazed by the town's beauty.
Planning your own trip to Umbria and thinking of visiting Trevi? Here's my top pick of the best things to do in this charming town. Also, don't forget to read my post about the history of Umbria. It might help you put some stories in perspective and get the most out of your trip.
I always travel to Trevi by train. Once you arrive at the train station, you can either take the bus or hike up the hill. The latter will take you about 40 minutes. It’s a good way to burn some calories so you feel less guilty about enjoying the delicious food you’ll find in Trevi.
Following the path that goes towards the heart of the village, you will come across the Santuario della Madonna delle Lacrime, or Our Lady of Tears. The church is built on the site of an old farmhouse that had a painting of a Madonna with child and San Francesco on its façade. Nothing too special you would say, but on an evening in August 1485, the Madonna was seen crying tears of blood.
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In memory of this miraculous event, it was decided that a church would be built.
The sober façade of the Madonna delle Lacrime is characterized by an elegant Renaissance portal by Giovanni da Venezia
Inside the church, there are several chapels. Two of them are decorated by two of the most important Umbrian painters: Lo Spagna and Perugino.
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Lo Spagno painted the Deposition of Christ. This scene is derived from the famous panel created by Raphael in 1507 for the Church of San Francesco al Prato in Perugia.
In the other chapel, second on the right wall of the nave, you’ll find the work of Perugino. It depicts the Adoration of the Kings with Saints Peter and Paul on either side.
If you have enough time, you can make a little detour before visiting the historic center of Trevi. From Santuario della Madonna delle Lacrime it’s a 20-minute walk to the Olivo di Sant’Emiliano (Google Maps). This olive tree is probably the oldest in Umbria and is certainly among the oldest in Italy. It is estimated to be more than 1600 years old. But that's not the only thing that makes the tree so special.
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The history of this olive tree is linked to that of Sant'Emiliano. He was the first bishop of Trevi and patron saint of the city.
In AD 303 Emperor Diocletian launched the last and most severe persecution of Christians. Emiliano was captured and subjected to countless tortures. Eventually, he was put to death on the 28th of January 304. They tied him to a young olive tree, and there he was beheaded. It is said that this plant is precisely the one known as the Olive Tree of Sant'Emiliano.
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Piazza Mazzini (Google Maps) is the heart of the Trevi. It's a peaceful square surrounded by several bars and restaurants. This makes it the perfect place to give your feet some rest, have a drink, and people-watch.
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While enjoying the life of the city on Piazza Mazzini, you'll probably notice the building and tower on the east side of the square. The building is the 13th century Town Hall. Its arcade was added in the 15th century. The Civic Tower next to it dates from the same period as the town hall. It's the symbol of the ancient commune, and I assume it's the same tower depicted in Trevi's coat of arms.
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Around the corner of the Civic Tower, you can find Teatro Clitunno (Google Maps). This small theater, built in 1875, was designed by architect Domenico Mollaioli. If you're lucky, you can attend one of the theater's performances and have a look at the front curtain.
The curtain is a work by Domenico Bruschi, one of the most active artists in Perugia after the unification of Italy. It portrays the Roman Emperor Caligula while offering sacrifices to the river god Clitunno.
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One of the most interesting religious buildings in Trevi is the Duomo di Sant'Emiliano. You can already see it when you exit the train station of Trevi. From the top of the hill, the church towers over the city and characterizes the town's profile.
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Once a pagan temple stood on the site of the church. The temple was dedicated to Diana Trivia, goddess of the hunt, wild animals, fertility, and the moon. In 199, the bishop of Foligno ordered the temple's demolition, and a Christian church was built.
However, the oldest remains of the Duomo di Sant'Emiliano date back to the 12th century. You can see them on the right side of the church: the three beautiful apses.
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The rest of the church was radically transformed and enlarged in the second half of the 15th century. Later, in the 19th century, the duomo was almost completely rebuilt by the architect Luca Carimini. He gave the church its present appearance.
Inside the church, you'll immediately notice the neoclassical style and the large Altar of the Sacrament on the left. It is the work of Rocco di Tommaso da Vicenza, an architect and sculptor from northern Italy.
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The surroundings of Trevi are unmistakably characterized by olive cultivation. If you want to learn more about aspects related to olive cultivation, then visiting the Complesso Museale di San Francesco is a great start.
The complex, located in the former convent of San Francesco, houses the Museum of Civilization of the Olive Tree. But that's not all. The complex also includes the Archaeological Museum, the Pinacoteca, and the church of San Francesco.
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Below I'll give you a short description of what to expect when visiting the complex. Personally, I found the Archaeological Museum, Pinacoteca and church a bit mediocre. But maybe that's just me..
Museum of Civilization of the Olive Tree
During your visit, you'll get to learn everything about olive cultivation, different processing techniques, and local rituals. The museum is divided into four sections, each with a different theme. There is Botany, Getting to know olive oil and the olive tree, The olive tree as a symbol of peace and History of the olive tree.
I am sure that after visiting the museum, you can't wait to taste the flavorful DOP Umbria Olive Oil yourself.
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Archaeological Museum
On the complex's ground floor, you'll find the Archaeological Museum. The museum's exhibition is divided into three rooms.
In the first room, there are several inscriptions dated between the 3rd century BC and the 4th century AD. The inscriptions allow you to partially reconstruct the administrative structure of the Roman municipality of Trebiae.
The second room is dedicated to the pre-Roman culture. Most of the finds that you'll see in this room are fragments of brown pottery dating back to between the 7th and 6th centuries BC.
In the third room, there are excavated materials from a Lombard necropolis that was discovered in nearby Pietrarossa. The finds date back to the 7th century AD. Among them is a skeleton of an elderly woman and funerary equipment.
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Pinacoteca
The Pinacoteca houses multiple works from the medieval and Renaissance period. Among the most important works is The Coronation of the Virgin by Lo Spagna. This work of art was made for the high altar of the Chiesa di San Martino.
Another important work in the collection is the Madonna and Child from the early period of Pinturicchio.
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Church of San Francesco
The Church of San Francesco is built on top of an older sacred building dedicated to the Madonna. The church's apse has frescoes on the walls from the first half of the 14th century. They depict the Stories of the Life of the Madonna.
The organ, located on the left wall of the church nave, is a very rare surviving example of what during the Renaissance was defined as a wall organ.
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Don’t forget to take some time to enjoy the view from Viala Augusto Ciuffelli before leaving Trevi. From Piazza Garibaldi, this road will lead you to Convento San Martino. During this short walk, you can enjoy the shade of the trees while having a striking panoramic view over the valley below. Can you see Foligno or even Perugia in the distance?
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