Nera River Park: hike through the Green Heart of Italy
The Marmore Falls in southern Umbria attract thousands of visitors every year. But did you know the falls are part of an even larger park? The Parco Fluviale del Nera, or Nera River Park. It stretches along 20 kilometers of the Nera. Along the river, inside the park, you will find several picturesque towns such as Ferentillo, Arrone, and Montefranco. They fit perfectly into the picturesque landscape.
On a recent trip to Terni, I visited the Marmore Falls and combined it with a hike through the Parco Fluviale del Nera. I haven't been able to explore the entire park, but hopefully this post gives you an idea of what to expect. Below I’ll describe the highlights of my hike through the Nera River Park.
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Cascata delle Marmore
With a total height of 165 meters, the Cascata delle Marmore is the highest man-made waterfall in Europe. It is even the second-highest in the world! Watching the water plunge over green cliffs into the valley below is truly a spectacular sight. The waterfall is surrounded by trees and greenery with several hiking trails. It makes the Marmore Falls one of the most popular attractions in Umbria.
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Much of the water in the canals above the falls is diverted to a hydroelectric power plant. This means the flow in the falls themselves is heavily reduced. The waterfall is 'turned on' about twice a day. Once the gates are open, the peaceful stream of water turns into a speeding flow of 15 cubic meters per second!
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In no time, you will see an immense wave of water crashing down via three stone drops. While roaring down, the water creates a fine mist that rises above the trees. If you ask me, this is the best time to visit the falls.
Also check out my separate post about the Marmore Falls to learn more about its history and when to visit.
Ferentillo
From the lower part of the Marmore Falls, I took the bus (E621) to Ferentillo, a small town in the northern part of Parco Fluviale del Nera.
The history of the village is linked to the Abbazia di San Pietro in Valle. Two fortresses were built to protect the abbey. The remains of these fortresses are still visible. You can see them from a distance, standing on two opposite hills.
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It is not the two ruins that attract tourists to Ferentillo though, but the crypt of the Chiesa di Santo Stefano. Above the entrance to the crypt is an ominous message:
“Oggi a me, domani a te. Io fui quel che tu sei, tu sarai quel che io sono. Pensa mortal che il tuo fine è questo, e pensa pur, che ciò sarà ben presto.”
Meaning: “Today me, tomorrow you. I was what you are, you will be what I am. Consider mortal, that your end is this, and consider also that it will be very soon.”
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After entering the crypt, you will soon come face to face with a group of mummies. The bodies were discovered during excavations in the crypt in the 19th century. The condition of the bodies was striking. Despite some being over 400 years old, they have been exceptionally well preserved. The corpses weren't meant to be mummified though. Scientists think their preservation results from the mineral-rich soil and specific microorganisms inside the crypt.
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Scientists have also tried to figure out the story of some of the mummies. This has resulted in some unusual backstories. For example, there is the body of a murdered lawyer, but also of a small group of Chinese pilgrims.
Do you have the courage to visit the mummy museum?
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Arrone
From Ferentillo, I took a hiking trail towards the southern part of the park. After an hour of walking through the idyllic green landscape, I arrived at the next village: Arrone.
The town was founded in the 9th century by the Roman nobleman Arrone. He decided to build a fortress on top of one of the rocky hills. The village that grew around it still bears the nobleman's name today.
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At the foot of the hill is the more recently built neighborhood of Santa Maria. In this district you will find the Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta, a small 16th-century church. It features several works of art inspired by Filippo Lippi, the Renaissance artist who painted the apse of the Duomo di Spoleto.
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The most beautiful part of Arrone can be found on top of the hill. This part of the village is called 'la Terra'. Thanks to the stone houses and narrow alleys, the medieval character is well preserved here. I really felt like I went back in time.
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On your way up, you will come across a second church worth a visit; the 13th century Church of San Giovanni Battista. In this church, you will also find frescoes from the school of Filippo Lippi.
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The most striking structure in the historic center is the clock tower, a remnant of Arroni's fortress. This tower not only stands out because of its height. When you look up, you can see an ancient olive tree rising on top of it.
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Montfranco
After Arrone I crossed the Strada Provinciale to visit the village of Montefranco. The two villages are about 2.5 kilometers apart.
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Montefranco owes its origins to the castle of Bufone. This castle was probably built in the 10th century to protect the valley from invading Saracen troops. Two centuries later, a new municipality developed around the fortress. It was founded by several men from Arrone who had left their town for fear of oppression. Feeling free in their new community, they gave it the name Montefranco. The name 'Franco' is linked to the word 'freedom.'
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When you visit the oldest part of the town, don't miss the Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta. You'll have a beautiful view over the valley below from this originally medieval church.
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After my visit to Montefranco, it was time to head back to Terni. I will definitely go back in the future to further explore the Nera River Park. If you are going to visit the park yourself, I recommend that you rent a bike so you can see the entire park. Do you want to make your visit more adventurous? The park also offers many opportunities for adventurous outdoor activities, such as rafting, free-climbing, and cave exploring.