Duomo di Monreale: masterpiece of Arab-Norman architecture
Planning to visit Sicily? Then don't forget to add Monreale to your itinerary. Monreale is located just outside the city of Palermo and is best known for its cathedral with extraordinary mosaics. The Duomo di Monreale is one of the best extant examples of Arab-Norman architecture. It is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site as part of a series (Arab-Norman Palermo and the churches of Cefalù and Monreale) of nine religious and civic structures. No wonder the cathedral is one of Sicily's most famous sights.
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But wait.. Arab-Norman architecture? In southern Italy? Yes. The island of Sicily has been conquered and ruled by many, including the Arabs and Normans. Under its Norman kings, the island experienced its golden age. Christians, Byzantines, Jews, Muslims all lived together in harmony. This variety of cultures resulted in a gorgeous blend of architectural styles. Want to find out more? Then don't forget to also read my post about the history of Sicily.
Monreale makes a perfect day trip from Palermo. So that's what I did. In this post, I will take you with me on my most recent visit (2022) to the Duomo di Monreale.
How to get there?
First, how to get to Monreale? If you're staying in Palermo, you probably don't have a car at your disposal. Luckily Monreale can easily be reached by bus. But which bus should you take?
Google Maps suggests several routes, but some of these include an uphill walk along winding roads without a sidewalk. Therefore my advice is to only take bus #389.
The bus leaves from Piazza Indipendenza. Look for the bus stop next to the large stone wall (Google Maps). You can buy a ticket (€ 1,40, valid for 90 minutes) at the nearby blue ticket point, or at one of the tabaccherie in the center. Don't forget to validate your ticket when you get on the bus!
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After about 30 minutes, you will arrive at 'Fontana Del Drago.' This is the final stop. From here, follow the street called Via Palermo. After about a five-minute walk, you will be right in front of the Duomo di Monreale.
Good to know: the bus back to Palermo leaves from the same stop where you got off (so not from the bus stop on the other side of the street).
History of the Duomo di Monreale
The cathedral's construction was ordered by king William II, who ruled over Sicily from 1166. One day, the king left his palace in Palermo to go hunting in the woods near Monreale. Tired from the hunt, he fell asleep in the shade of a carob tree. It is said that while sleeping, the Holy Virgin Mary suddenly appeared to him. She revealed to William that there was a hidden treasure underneath the carob tree.
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On waking up, William found the treasure and decided to have a cathedral built on the exact same spot. He dedicated the Duomo di Monreale to the Holy Virgin and named it the Santa Maria la Nuova.
Fascinating story, but it's more likely that William II had the church built to compete with Walter Ophamil, the bishop of Palermo. Walter Ophamil later ordered the construction of the large Duomo di Palermo.
The construction of the Duomo di Monreale began in 1174. It is assumed that the work was done by both local workers, as well as experienced artists from Venice and Constantinople.
Façade
Before entering the cathedral, let's admire its facade. The original main entrance to the church is in Piazza Guglielmo II (Google Maps). Two magnificent bronze doors can be seen between the cathedral's large towers. The doors were made by Bonanno Pisano, who divided them into 42 square panels depicting biblical scenes.
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On the east side, you will find one of the most representative parts of the cathedral. Take a look at the intersecting arches, the vibrant colors of the inlays, and the geometrical designs in limestone and lava stone. The facade shows an extraordinary combination of beauty, elegance, and magnificence!
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Now head back to the entrance at Piazza Vittorio Emanuele. I found this facade less impressive, but the entrance door is noteworthy. The door has bronze panels applied on wooden casements and was crafted by Barisano da Trani. It is divided into 28 squares depicting saints and evangelists. One of the tiles contains the words "Barisanus Tranensis me fecit," meaning "made by Barisano from Trani." The tile also shows a self-portrait of Barisano kneeling at the feet of a saint.
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Interior
The cathedral's stunning interior will, without a doubt, be the highlight of your visit. The walls of the duomo are decorated with shimmering mosaics, consisting of about 140 biblical artworks. All mosaic pictures are placed upon a background of gold tiles, covering a total of 6,340 square meters! I will describe some of the mosaics in more detail, but let me first give you an overall impression of the church's interior.
Let's start in the central nave. Here the mosaics depict some of the most important stories of the Old Testament, while both the side aisles show the miracles of Jesus.
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As you walk towards the transept you will see two grand organs facing each other. Next to them are two artworks that show king William II. On the left is the crowning of William II by Jesus, and on the right, you can see William offering a model of the church to Mary and dedicating the cathedral to her. In the transept itself you will find mosaics devoted to the life of Jesus.
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What strikes the eye most, is the central apse with the prominent Christ Pantocrator (meaning the Almighty). This masterpiece is probably the emblem of the Duomo di Monreale. With his right hand, Jesus is giving his blessing while his left hand holds an open Bible. It is open to John 8:12: "I am the light of the world. Whoever follows me will not wander in darkness."
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Below the Christ Pantocrator are several saints. In the center you can see the Virgin Mary, flanked by the archangels Michael and Gabriel.
The overwhelming mosaics make you almost forget that the cathedral also has several remarkable chapels. I especially liked the Cappella del Santissimo Crocifisso, or Chapel of the Holy Crucifix. This chapel was added to the cathedral in the 17th century to create a remarkable space for a 15th-century wooden crucifix that was a gift of king William II. The result is a small Baroque treasure chest full of beautiful wall decorations in inlaid marble and wood. You can find the chapel on the left of the three apses.
Now, let's head back to nave. I'll describe some of the mosaics in more detail.
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The Creation of Eve (backside of the nave)
I guess you're familiar with the story of how God created the heavens and the earth in six days and then rested on the seventh. When God created mankind, he started with Adam. The mosaic shows that God, sitting on a symbol of the universe, then put Adam to sleep and drew Eve forth from his ribs.
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The Destruction of Sodom (Backside of the nave)
Sodom and Gomorrah were two legendary biblical cities destroyed by God for the immorality of their people. Just before the destruction of Sodom, Lot and his family are told to flee and not look back. If you're familiar with the story, you know Lot's wife did look back. After doing so, she immediately changed into a pillar of salt. This is why she is depicted entirely in white.
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Expulsion from Paradise (left side of the nave)
After eating the forbidden fruit, Adam and Eve are expelled from the Garden of Eden. The mosaic shows how the sad couple, dressed in tunics, are evicted by an angel. On the left, you see a cherub (an angelic figure) guarding the gate of Paradise with a flaming sword.
Cain Slays Abel (left side of the nave)
Cain and Abel were the first two sons of Adam and Eve. Cain was a farmer, and Abel was a shepherd. Both made sacrifices to God, but God favored Abel's sacrifices the most. Out of jealousy, Cain then kills Abel with a club. The mosaic shows Abel lying on the floor bleeding.
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Jacob Wrestles with the Angel (left side of the nave)
The two brothers Jacob and Esau had become sworn enemies after Jacob stole Esau's birthright. Years later, when Jacob was on his way to visit his estranged brother, he came across a mysterious man at night. The two end up fighting each other till daybreak. Then the man said, "Let me go, for it is daybreak." But Jacob replied, "I will not let you go unless you bless me." The man asked him, "What is your name?" "Jacob," he answered. Then the man said, "Your name will no longer be Jacob, but Israel, for you have striven with God and with men and have prevailed." The mysterious man's identity is a matter of debate, but some say it was an angel.
The Tower of Babel (right side of the nave)
In the beginning, the whole earth had a common language and a common vocabulary. One day the inhabitants of the land of Shinar decided to build a tower. The tower had to be tall enough to reach heaven so they could make a name for themselves. God put a stop to this by having everyone speak different languages. Without proper understanding, the people weren't able to finish their work and were forced to abandon the project.
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View over Conca d'Oro
A visit to the cathedral is not complete if you have not been to the roof. The stairs to the top are located at the southwestern corner of the nave. I have to warn you though. The passageways are really narrow. So, if you're not fond of cramped spaces, simply skip the rooftop.
Once you're upstairs, you'll have a breathtaking view over Palermo and a large portion of Conca d'Oro. This area around Palermo owes its name to the many citrus groves that used to be there.
You also have a beautiful view of the cloister from the roof. This cloister is our next stop.
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Cloister
After admiring the cathedral and its mosaics, you can visit the cloister on the southern side of the duomo. It is the most significant remnant of the former Benedictine abbey, which was also built on king William's instruction.
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Most notable is the internal renaissance garden, which is surrounded by 26 arches on each of the four sides. The arches are supported by 228 double columns. Many of them are decorated with mosaics or beautifully carved ornaments.
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The splendid capitals on top of the columns include narrative cycles from the Old and New Testaments. One of the capitals (on the west side) shows William II offering the Church to the Virgin Mary.
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There is a fountain in the southwest corner of the garden with an excellent column in the middle. It looks like it is carved like a palm tree.
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